Hand Forged Blades & what to look for
by Les Robertson
The forged blade conjures real and surreal images in the minds of makers and collectors alike. Makers let their mind’s eye see the blade take shape by their hand in their shop. Every detail is considered until the knife or sword is complete. Collectors envision how the maker got a piece of steel to the finished product that they hold in their hand. Delighting in the combination of materials, the quick/light feel in their hand, and the balance sought in all fixed blades.
Early on, I found what attracted me most to forged blades was how light the larger knives were, particularly the Bowies. The forged blades feature distal tapering. The blades are forged in a wedge shape, thick at the top and very thin at the edges. This technique will reduce the weight on any forged blade. The other feature that has really garnered attention is the Hamon or temper line. The Hamon is created by differential heat treatment of the blade.
When looking at a forged blade, it is not so different from a knife made by the stock removal method. First, does the knife appeal to me? Let’s be honest here, there are knives out there that will primarily appeal only to the maker. I like to see a proper blade-to-handle ratio. Most handles will be 4 ½” to 5″, depending on the type and style of knife. I have seen knives that feature a 3 ½” blade and a 5″ handle. Perhaps there was a specific purpose for that knife. However, it just doesn’t look right. Obviously, a smaller or larger hand may require an adjustment to the handle length and possibly the blade length. Part of the reason for a proper blade-to-handle ratio is to ensure the knife is appropriately balanced. Generally, the guard’s position is where the blade should balance. Some knives, depending on the blade length and/or stock, may balance slightly ahead of the guard. Some knives with larger handles may balance slightly behind the guard. As you hold the knife, you will find out whether the handle is an ergonomic fit or not. Some knives seem to become an extension of your hand, while others can be uncomfortable to hold.
Handles on forged blades will basically come in 3 styles:
1) The mortise tang, where a piece of handle material is split down the center. Then a pocket is created for the tang on each side. Only enough material is removed so that the scales match back up when they are glued together. On an excellent job, you will have difficulty finding the line where the two pieces of material come back together. In others, it will be very apparent that the knife features a mortise-tang configuration. Next is the “stick tang,” which is precisely what it sounds like. The handle material will be drilled down the center, and depending on the handle setup, the tang may or may not extend to the other end. Often, wood handles with a hidden tang will feature a couple of pins to help hold the tang in place. This is done primarily as a backup, and often the pins feature a mosaic pattern.
2) The “carver” handle, is generally found on stag. The Stag handle resembles one found on older type carver sets used to carve meat at the dinner table. Often, these will feature a stainless steel or Damascus spacer, file-worked to match the Stag. The tang will come all the way through the handle, spacer, and screw into a finial at the end of the handle. You will often find this with Ivory, with or without the spacer and finial. Note that on both Ancient Walrus Ivory and Stag, there may be a curve to the left or right, which can add or detract from the handle ergonomics.
3) The frame handle, which is precisely what it sounds like. A separate frame, which will also feature the guard, is built with the handle material (and often liners of some sort) fitted into the frame’s sides. The tang is then secured in the frame with pins and bolts, which can be hidden beneath the handle material or visible. It can be deceptive, as it appears to be a full tang knife. That is your first clue it is more than likely a frame handle. This type of handle is the most expensive due to the considerable effort required to create it.
What about the steel? Depending on the intended use, the environment of use, and any other unusual parameters, the type of steel used can make a big difference. That said, while looking at a forge blade, three things to look for are:
1) Is the edge sharp? Often, people want to run their finger along the edge or across their thumbnail. I would caution you about this. I would suggest bringing paper or a magazine with you. Test the edge on something other than your body parts.
2) The blade finish. What you are looking for here is straight lines from the front of the guard to the point. Everything should be going horizontally on the blade. I find pointing the tip towards the lights overhead and looking along the blade a great way to see the finish.
3) Symmetry. That is to say, are any grinds equal on both sides? Points where the grinds come together are the best place to look. Example: the choil area, where you can often tell if the maker is left or right-handed.
Damascus, while challenging to create, has become more abundant. Comprised not only of a combination of carbon steels and nickel, but stainless-steel Damascus is also now an option. Damascus will go from the basic Ladder and Twist pattern to more exotic patterns and finally to Mosaic Damascus patterns. Literally, your name, a flag, Santa and his reindeer, etc., can be put into Damascus steel. Two things you will want to look for are an even acid etch on the Damascus. The other would-be separations between the layers within the Damascus. This is referred to as delamination.
Just as the forged blade makers have a wide variety of resources to educate themselves on what to look for in knives in this category, so do the forged blade buyers. All of these knives pictured were made by ABS Master Smiths. If you are wondering what Knickmeyer, Bradshaw, Cashen & McIntosh had to do to receive this title, click here. The ABS website also is a wealth of information regarding what is expected of makers with a particular rating. Given the number of Hammer In’s and knife shows that are in the US, there is probably one close to you. A basic understanding of how a knife is made can go a long way to give you an appreciation/education on how easy or difficult some aspects of knife making can be. The Internet can be mined for a treasure trove of aftermarket potential of a particular maker’s work.




























































































































